All posts by Genevieve

Shakarkandi Gobi – Indian sweet potato and cauliflower

Dinner, , , , , , , , , ,

Aloo Shakarkandi

During our time living in India we became really big fans of Indian food. One of the greatest parts of traveling there was tasting all the different types of food around the country. In India this is normally made with potatoes, but we have substituted them for sweet potatoes in this dish for the extra nutrition.

Ingredients

  • 400g cauliflower, cut into portions / florets
  • 300g sweet potato, peeled and cu into 3cm chips
  • coconut oil
  • pinch of asafoetida
  • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
  • 3cm fresh ginger, peeled and grated
  • 1/2 large green chilli, finely chopped
  • 1/4 tsp tumeric
  • 1/4 tsp chilli powder
  • pinch of salt
  • 1/2 tsp garam masala
  • 1/4 tsp amchur (mango powder)
  • handful of fresh coriander, roughly chopped
  • 120ml water

Directions

  1. Heat 1 Tbsp of coconut oil in a large frying pan over a high heat. Add the asafoetida, cumin seeds, ginger, chilli and turmeric. Mix and fry for a few seconds.
  2. Add cauliflower, sweet potato, water, and salt, cover and cook on a medium high heat until the water is evaporated. This will take about 10 minutes. Stir once in a while to avoid it catching on the bottom of the pan.
  3. Check that the sweet potatoes are cooked through. If they are not you may need to cook them for a little while longer, and add a little more water to create the steam to cook them in.
  4. Add the garam masala, coriander and mango powder. Mix and serve.
  5. Can be served as a side dish with Chicken Cardamon Curry with Papaya or another curry dish.

Music to go with it…
Listen on Spotify: The War on Drugs – Lost in the Dream

 

 

Avocado Tahini Dip with Pomegranate Seeds

Condiments and Dips, , , , , , , , , ,

Avocado Tahini Dip with Pomegranate SeedsThere is nothing that says “Middle Eastern food” like pomegranate and tahini. This avocado tahini dip is given a very fresh flavour with the addition of pomegranate seeds which are both stirred through it and used as a garnish. While the pomegranate gives it a delicious flavour, you can also leave them out for a more simple avocado tahini dressing if you prefer.

Ingredients

  • 1 avocado
  • 1 garlic clove
  • 1/2 Tbsp tahini
  • juice of 1 lime
  • 1/2 tsp ground cumin
  • 1 red chili, de-seeded
  • 1 small red onion, finely chopped
  • 2 Tbsp olive oil
  • handful of fresh mint
  • handful of fresh coriander
  • sea salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • handful of pomegranate seeds to garnish
  • sumac to garnish (optional)

Directions

  1. Put the avocado, garlic, tahini, lime juice, cumin powder, chili, red onion, mint, coriander, sea salt, pepper and olive oil in a blender. Blend until smooth.
  2. The  dip should be on the thick side, so be careful not to add too much olive oil. 
  3. Stir through a handful of pomegranate seeds so that they are found throughout the dip. 
  4. Garnish with a little sumac (optional)
  5. Serve together with sweet potato fries, with Lebanese lamb burgers, or on pan fried fish. 

Music to go with it…
Listen on Spotify: Tiny Ruins – Brightly Painted One

Za’atar

Glossary, , , , , ,

Za'atar

Za’atar is the generic name for the herbs oregano, thyme, and marjoram. As a spice mix it is usually based on these dried herbs, combined with sesame seeds, salt, and sometimes sumac and other spices. Used widely in Arab cuisine, both the herb and spice mixture are popular throughout the Middle East.

You can often find this in your supermarket (try the Asian food section), or by looking for a Middle Eastern supermarket in your city.

If you are not able to find it, then you can mix it up yourself. There is no definitive recipe for Za’atar as it is a blend of spices that varies from store to store in its native Lebanon, but this is a basic recipe you can use and vary from.

If you are unable to find it, you can also make it using our za’atar recipe

Asafoetida

Glossary, , ,

Asafoetida

Asafoetida is the dried resin extracted from a particular species of herb. The species is native to the deserts of Iran, mountains of Afghanistan, and is mainly cultivated in  India. Asafoetida is a very smelly spice, but in cooked dishes it delivers a flavor similar to leeks.

Asafoetida is used as a digestive aid, in food as a condiment, and in pickle. It typically works as a flavor enhancer and, used along with turmeric, is a standard component of Indian cuisine. When making a lentil curry (dal) and many other vegetable dishes, the flavour is often enhanced with a tempering (quick fry) of asafoetida together with other spices.

It is especially widely used in South Indian and Maharashtrian (Mumbai) cuisine, which is mainly vegetarian. It is often used to harmonize sweet, sour, salty and spicy components in food.

The Cultural Triangle, Sri Lanka

Escape, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Pilgrims, Lankatilake temple, Kandy, Sri Lanka (January 2014)

North of Colombo
From Colombo we headed north for a week. You could also do the same, or combine it with the South Coast of Sri Lanka route (in a separate post) in order to create a 2 week trip to Sri Lanka. On this trip we went from Colombo to Kandy and then up to Dambulla. From Dambulla you can make 3 stunning day trips – to Sigiriya, Pollonnaruwa and Anuradhapura (preferably overnight rather than a day trip).

Colombo to Kandy
Colombo airport is north of Colombo near the coastal town of Negombo. Because you don’t have to drive through Colombo, it is a relatively straight forward drive of 3  hours up to Kandy.

Logistics
There are 2 main options when it comes to transport – hire a car and driver (for about USD70 per day), or ask your hotel to collect you from the airport. For Colombo to Kandy a car collecting you will cost around USD100, but you won’t need a car for the days that you stay in Kandy (you can use a rickshaw / tuk tuk arranged by the hotel to get around as it is not particularly big.)

Alternative you can hire a car and self drive although you need a GPS as while the roads are good, the signage is not particularly. There are several rental hire places located in the airport terminal.

Rickshaw and Bus on Dalada Vidiya street, Kandy, Sri Lanka (Janu

Rickshaw and Bus on Dalada Vidiya street, Kandy

Kandy, pilgrimage city
Kandy is a UNESCO World heritage site, and hill town best known for the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic. This is a beautiful pilgrimage site and we spent quite a while wandering around and exploring it. (Do remember to dress modestly and cover your legs and shoulders. You will also be asked to remove your shoes and check them in before entering the temple).

Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, Kandy, Sri Lanka (January 2014

Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, Kandy

Said to house a tooth of the Buddha, it is the most important Buddhist site in Sri Lanka. Upon entry we were greeted by drummers and followed the pilgrims up the stairs. There was a long queue of women with flowers in their hair and men dressed to pay their respects carrying lotus blossoms and frangipani. Beyond the main hall is a large, open aired meeting hall, and a separate hall housing Buddha statues and beautiful painted scenes from the Ramayana.

Inspired by an episode of Peter Kuruvita’s cooking show where he visited the temple and found a quiet niche in which to pay his respects to his departed father, we also found a site of solitude within the walls of the temple, which despite it being a busy attraction is quite possible to do. There are very tranquil areas with monks in prayers that were a pleasure to seek out.

At the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic

At the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic

Around Kandy
From Kandy I did a half day tour by Tuk Tuk / rickshaw through the countryside to visit 2 other temples; Lankatilake and Gadaladeniya Temples.

Gadaladeniya Temple is a relatively simple stupa (rounded temple shape) structure which had a roof constructed over it to protect it from the elements when I visited. The site is Buddhist, but there is also a Hindu annex at the back. The location is very peaceful with lotus blossoms growing amoungst the ponds, and it was a nice pause on the way to Lankatilake.

You approach Lankatilake through rice paddies, and past a small school. It is set on the top of a hill with a magnificent view over the fields. At the front of the temple is a locked room containing a Buddha image surrounded by painted walls. The monk opened the room for me to have a look, and explained that it was from the 7th century. The gold embossed walls on a dark red background were very beautiful, and it was all the more special for being in there alone with the monk.

Buddha sancturm, Lankatilake temple

Buddha sancturm, Lankatilake temple

The temple also features carved elephants, Kandy period paintings, a Hindu praying area and rock face inscriptions. There were hardly any other people visiting while I was there and it was very atmospheric. Actually it was one of the highlights of my trip because of its simplicity and location.

Pilgrims, Lankatilake temple, Kandy, Sri Lanka (January 2014)

Pilgrims, Lankatilake temple, Kandy

Pilgrims, Lankatilake temple, Kandy, Sri Lanka (January 2014)

Pilgrims, Lankatilake temple

Villa Rosa Hotel
In Kandy we stayed at Villa Rosa hotel. Situated on top of a hill it has beautiful views out over the valley beyond from the restaurant and many of the rooms. The food was very good (although we only ate Sri Lankan food while we were there) and the room was generous in size and decorated with local antiques. There is also a library area where you can relax, and a large enough piece of grass for a little football game for Liam.

View from Villa Rosa Hotel in Kandy, Sri Lanka (January 2014)

View from Villa Rosa Hotel in Kandy

Kandy to Dambulla
From Kandy to Dambulla we again asked the hotel to arrange us a car and driver. It is around a 2 hour drive, but it took us longer as we stopped at Aluvihara Monastery on the way.

Aluvihara Monastery has a series of caves featuring reclining Buddhas amidst painted rooms, and some bizarre scenes of devils meting out punishments to sinners (not for kids – although they can enjoy the rest of the monastery). Attractively located amoungst large boulders which have fallen from the nearby mountain. We climbed up onto one of them for beautiful views to the mountain, but you could also climb further up to the large Buddha statue further up the hill for more views if you wish.

Golden Buddha, Aluvihara monastery, near Dambulla, Sri Lanka (J

Golden Buddha, Aluvihara monastery, near Dambulla

Dambulla Cave Temples
The highlight of a trip to Dambulla are the Cave Temples. As we hiked up to them, we paused to look back towards Sigiriya Rock which is clearly visible some 20km away. The history of these caves is thought to date back to the 1st century BC, but the Buddha statues and wall paintings are remarkably well preserved given this long history. In total there are 5 caves and some 150 Buddha images.

We combined it with our drive up from Kandy and stopping in Aluvihara to make a rather long (and hot) day, but it is quite possible to do this if you are on a tight schedule. (Don’t forget to bring your own water with you though, as the site is exposed to the sun during your walk.)

Dambulla cave temples, Sri Lanka (January 2014)

Inside one of the Dambulla cave temples, Sri Lanka (January 2014

Inside one of the Dambulla cave temples, Sri Lanka

 

Kalundewa retreat
Our hotel in Kalundewa is one of our stand out hotels in Asia. Our room was one of 2 in a glass box sitting in the middle of a small lake. You share the living room and plunge pool, but when we were visiting we were the only guests booked in. The hotel has other rooms that are bungalows nestled amoungst the rice fields. Hornbill birds were flying around our room at dusk, and we walked amoungst the rice fields while we waited for dinner. It was quite magical!

Rice fields surrounding the Kalundewa Retreat hotel, Dambulla, S

Kalundewa Retreat hotel, Dambulla

Malabar Hornbill birds, Kalundewa Retreat hotel, Dambulla

Malabar Hornbill birds, Kalundewa Retreat hotel, Dambulla

Dambulla day trip to Sigiriya
From Dambulla to Sigiriya is a half hour drive. From there we walked up to the top of the grand rock and enjoy the rock paintings on the way, and the ruins of an old palace or temple (the exact origin is disputed) that sits atop it. The views over the surrounding countryside are quite stunning, and the walk up was well worth it.

Sigiriya Rock, Sri Lanka (January 2014)

Sigiriya Rock

Cave rock paintings, Sigiriya Rock

Cave rock paintings, Sigiriya Rock

Polonaruwa, heritage city
Polonaruwa is a former capital city of Sri Lanka and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is around 1 1/2 hours drive from Dambulla and you can easily spend a day wandering around it. We tried to squeeze it into the second half of our day trip to Sigiriya, but it was a bit tight. We were very hungry and tired from walking up the rock, and ended up rushing it more than it deserved.

That said, it was well worth the trip. At around 1000 years old, it is quite well preserved, although on a smaller scale to Anuradhapura (which we did not end up visiting, but would love to go back to visit).

The Royal Palace Group, Quadrangle area and Gal Vihara were stand out areas of the ruins, with the last housing beautiful buddha images which are housed under a roof to protect them from the elements.

Vatadage Quadrangle, Polonnaruwa

Vatadage Quadrangle, Polonnaruwa

Gal Vihara, Polonnaruwa

Gal Vihara, Polonnaruwa

Sri Lanka, a gem to be explored futher
Somehow Sri Lanka has captured a little piece of our heart. It is a place that we would love to go back to again and explore even further. Anuradhapura, The Horton Plains National Park and World’s End, and Ula Walawe National park with its elephants are all still on our wish list. So who knows, maybe we will have to plan another escape back to Sri Lanka soon.

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Food Revolution

Body, , , , , ,

Liam with chocolate

Jamie Oliver has been trying for some time to bring it to our collective attention that we are not prioritizing the health of our children through the food choices that we make – both at home, and in school dinners. With rising obesity and diabetes figures amoungst children globally (you can include China and India, along with Western countries) it is hard to argue with him.

Starting a Food Revolution
Yesterday I sat down and watched every episode of his Food Revolution series. In it he tried to replicate what he had achieved in the UK with school dinners in the US. In the first series he worked with a school in a relatively small town to change what they cooked and what the children were served. He met huge resistance but was ultimately able to change what they were serving and see the results. But the community struggled with how he did it and the criticism that they received during the process.

When he tried to do it a second time in Los Angeles, the LA school board did not want to receive the criticism and negative publicity that came with it, and effectively shut the program down. For the whole series he tries to get permission to get access to a school and its cafeteria, but meets legal resistance after political resistance. Through the whole series he never really gets started on what he went there to do and it is no wonder that no third series appears to have been made. He mentions in the show that no other school district had given him permission either. To his credit he did not give up, but took a different (online) approach.

Eating more fruit and vegetables or knowing what they are?
But it really got me thinking. With Garlic and Lime we want to inspire people to eat more fruit and vegetables, to eat naturally. We choose to live Gluten and Dairy Free as well, but that isn’t at the core. The core is to eat natural, whole foods. To skip the processed food aisles at the supermarket, and focus on the natural goodness of foods you make yourself.

Through the Food Revolution program you saw how far away this is for some people. How basic nutritional understanding of whether this is a tomato or a potato was simply not there with some of the teenage children. Some of the students he spoke to didn’t know that butter comes from a cow, rather than corn. As he rightly points out, this isn’t the fault of the kids, this is the fault of the parents and educators. On Garlic and Lime we give a glossary of some of the more exotic ingredients we use, but to think that for some people that all of the ingredients we use are exotic breaks my heart.

You also saw how far away considering the health impact of the ingredients in food was from so called “health professionals” and “food industry experts”. There were so many good reasons why the ingredients list had to sound like a high school science project. So many good reasons why cooking with natural ingredients “was not economically viable”. But at what cost? The health of a generation? Early death from obesity and diabetes?

Can we do anything?
I have been puzzling on this question all night. All I know is that I can effect change in my own home. I can explain to my son that fruit and vegetables are good for you, and why he should (and is) eating them. I can consciously choose to involve him in food selection, preparation, and cooking. I can consciously choose to talk to him about recycling, food waste and pollution. 

So this morning we had a conversation about the contents of the goodie bag he got from the birthday party of one of his school friends yesterday. It was full of junk food, and included some “noodle snacks” which Liam was convinced must be the best of them health wise because it didn’t seem to include sugar. But its second ingredients was “processed palm oil” and it listed 4 different E numbers (flavours and preservatives). We explained to him why it was terrible for him, and threw it in the bin in front of him, to no resistance. It is a start I guess.

Beyond that, what can each of us do? Your ideas and thoughts are welcome.

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Thrive Rockmelon Juice

Drinks, , , , , , , , , ,

Thrive rockmelon juice

At the food market yesterday Liam decided that he was going to choose all of the fruits and vegetables, and rockmelon was amoungst his selection. This is his  creation this morning.

Ingredients

  • 1 rockmelon
  • 1 orange (whole)
  • 1 lime
  • 2 red apples (whole, washed)
  • 2 pears (whole, washed)
  • Centrifugal or slow juicer

Directions

  1. Cut the rockmelon into slices that will fit into your juicer tube. Remove the hard rind from the melon.
  2. Wash the apples and pears, and remove the stalks. (Only cut them if needed to fit into your juicer tube)
  3. Put the rockmelon, lime and orange (not peeled) through the juicer on the slow speed.
  4. Put the apples and pears through the juicer on the fast speed.
  5. Stir to combine all of the juices together and serve over ice.
  6. Makes 4-5 glasses.

Music to go with it…
Listen on Spotify: Haim – Days are Gone

 

 

 

Singapore Summer juice

Drinks, , , , , , , , ,

Singapore Summer Juice

One of the joys of living in Singapore is the perpetual summer, and the abundance of tropical fruits. This juice was the perfect accompaniment to browsing through a Singapore guidebook to find our weekend excursion destination.

Ingredients

  • 3 carrots (whole, unpeeled, washed)
  • 1 guava (whole, unpeeled, washed)
  • 1 pineapple
  • 1 lime (whole, washed)
  • 2 red apples (whole, unpeeled, washed)
  • Centrifugal or slow juicer machine

Directions

  1. Cut off the top and bottom of the pineapple. Cut off the tough exterior, and cut the pineapple into quarters so that it fits into the juicer tube.
  2. Wash the skins of the other fruits, and cut them only if required to fit into your juicer tube.
  3. For a centrifugal juicer, turn the juicer to speed 1 (slowest speed). Juice the pineapple, apples and guava.
  4. Turn the juicer up to speed 2 (fastest speed). Juice the carrots and lime. 
  5. Turn off the juicer. Stir the juice to combine the fruits.
  6. Serve over ice straight after juicing. Including the lime ensures that the apples will not turn brown quickly, so it will keep for a few hours if you prefer, but it never lasts that long in our house.

Music to go with it…
Listen on Spotify: Gregory Isaacs – Night Nurse

 

 

 

 

4 days in Georgetown, Malaysia

Escape, , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Rickshaws in Chinatown, Georgetown

Georgetown: a melting pot of cultures
Originally established as a trading post by the British, Georgetown (Penang) attracted a melting pot of traders. Like Singapore, Georgetown has its heart in Malaysia, but also drew a community of Chinese traders, and like Singapore these too are Straights Chinese or Peranakans (Nonya’s).

Indians – both traders and workers – also came to George Town, and built a community. Dominated by Muslim and Hindu Tamils, but also home to Gujaratis, Malayalams, Bengalis, and Indians from other parts of India. They built a community that still exists (and is protected in its existence) until today.

It is this unique blend of cultures within a relatively small area, and the historic buildings that symbolize their long term co-existence that has made George Town into a Unesco World Heritage site (since 2008). In announcing its entry into the list of World Heritage sites it was described as an “inspiration” to others how this melting pot could co-exist and thrive for so long. Long may it last.

Sri Mariamman Temple

Sri Mariamman Temple

Coffee Atelier Hotel
We booked in to stay at the “Coffee Atelier” in George Town. It is right in the heart of the Old Town (47 Lorong Stewart Street), and housed within the walls of a former shop house that has been restored and converted into a restaurant and 4 apartments. Our room included a large main room, and a separate single bed for our son in an adjoining ante-room. Free wifi was also included. 

While it was a little noisy (old buildings don’t tend to have the best sound proofing) it was the perfect place to stay in such a historic town. Just down the road was Little India and China Town, the Kapitan Keling mosque, Sri Mahamariamman Hindu temple and Chinese temples.

Downstairs is also a Coffee Atelier cafe which serves delicious coffees, including latte art. It was a great place to enjoy dinner after a day of walking in the city, and breakfast at the cafe was included in the hotel price. 

Old shophouses in Lorong Stewart Street

Old shophouses in Lorong Stewart Street

Obsessed with Food
This similar melting pot of cultures to Singapore, means that the food also shares common origins, and George Town seems to also share its obsession with food. In fact it is the food, as much as the buildings, that will remain with us as impressions after we leave.

Tek Sen Restaurant
During our stay we enjoyed cheap and delicious Chinese food at Tek Sen Restaurant in a converted shophouse (18 Lebuh Carnarvon). While the restaurant is anything but fancy, with plastic tables and chairs, the food was delicious and very affordable. Shortly after 6pm a sizable queue had formed with locals waiting for their dinner on their way home from work – always a good sign! 

Tek Sen Restaurant

Tek Sen Restaurant

Seven Terraces
Our dinner at Seven Terraces hotel in the Kebaya restaurant (Lorong Stewart) is perhaps at the other end of the scale in terms of price, but still reasonable compared to eating in Singapore or Amsterdam. It uses French techniques fused with Indonesian and Straights Chinese flavours for a refined dinner on good linen with beautiful china crockery. The 4 course degustion menu is designed to be shared in the Chinese style, exactly the way we love to eat. 

Seven Terraces is across the street from the Coffee Atelier, and is also a nice alternative for a hotel if you are looking to stay in the historic centre but go a little upmarket. 

China House
China House was a great little place that we discovered by accident, but went back to eat at twice. It is a great option for lunch after you are finished exploring Lorong Chulia and the Street art around Lebuh Armenian. Located at 155 Beach Street, it serves Western food with a diverse set of Asian and Middle Eastern influences – Fusion food. Think Thai Style Chicken Salad with Macademia Nuts or a daily special menu of asian flavours served in a bento box. 

I love it that they put paper down on the tables and encourage you to draw on them – something my son thoroughly enjoyed!

Drawing at ChinaHouse Restaurant, Beach Road

Drawing at ChinaHouse Restaurant, Beach Road

Out and about around Georgetown
The advantage of staying in the middle of the historic centre is that there is so much that you can do on foot.

On the first day, try exploring the area around Lebuh Armenian and Lorong Chulia. They are great places to wander and poke your head into boutiques. Also look out for the street art in the side streets around this area. There is a free street art map that you can pick up at many hotels.

The Clan Jetties near the end of Lebuh Armenian on Pengkalan Wald are also worth exploring, but please do respect that people live here and that you are visiting their homes.

Those interested in Chinese History can visit the home of Sun Yat Sen at 120 Lebuh Armenian. Considered one of the father’s of modern China, he led the Chinese revolution to found the modern Republic, and served briefly as the President of China. He lived in Georgetown in exile for 6 months.

Step by Step Lane streetart

Step by Step Lane streetart

On the second day, try going in the other direction towards the Eastern and Oriental Hotel (Lebuh Farquhar) to stroll along the coast and enjoy a high tea. Not far away is Chong Fat Tze historic home (Leith Street), and the Hainan Temple (Jalan Muntri). There are many eating choices on Jalan Muntri for lunch. End by exploring the little shops on Love Lane. 

Eastern Oriental Hotel by the harbour

Eastern Oriental Hotel, Lenuh Farquhar, by the harbour

Logistics
Our trip to Georgetown was for a long weekend (4 days) while we were living in Singapore. You could consider this as part of a longer trip to Malaysia as well if you are living further away. We flew from Singapore to Penang with Jetstar, but Tiger Air, Air Asia and Silk Air also all fly this route. We arranged a taxi through the hotel to collect us from the airport and take us to the hotel in Georgetown. It is a 16km journey which takes 20-30 minutes depending on traffic and costs 35-40 Malaysian Ringgit.

We had a great time in Georgetown. It was an easy long weekend destination that can easily be enjoyed on foot. The diversity of the food and street art were definitely highlights. 

Rickshaw streetart, Chinatown

Rickshaw streetart, Jalan Penang, Chinatown

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On retreat, South Coast, Sri Lanka

Escape, , , , , , , ,

Apa Villa Illuketia during a rain storm

One of the joys of living in Singapore is that travel in Asia is so accessible. New Year, Chinese New Year, and Easter are great opportunities for a longer trip away within Asia, without having to spend too many of your vacation days.

For one of these longer weekends we decided to go to Sri Lanka for 7 days to enjoy the coastline from Galle along the coast. This could also be done from a further away location for 6-10 days depending on your travel time.

Travel logistics
We flew into Colombo on Sri Lankan airlines, which offers some excellent flight deals to Sri Lanka from many destinations (we flew there on good deals from Delhi and Singapore). It is a full service airline with check in luggage and full meals (note: we have no relationship with this airline).

From Colombo over the new highway to Galle is a 3 1/2 hour drive by car. Cars to drive you to Galle from the airport can be arranged through the hotel for USD$100-120, or you can also arrange private car hire for USD$70 per day for your entire trip.

On our first trip we hired a car and driver for the whole trip, but were not satisfied with our driver and ended up firing him and hiring a different car and driver from each location to the next through the hotel. While the day rate is slightly more expensive than $70 per day, we saved on the days that we did not need a car and could use a local taxi or tuk tuk instead, and so the total cost was about the same. You can consider both options depending on your preference.

Woman with an umbrella walking past old buildings in the streets

Galle, South Coast of Sri Lanka
We started the trip near Galle staying at the two properties of Apa Villas. Just 8km from UNESCO heritage site listed Galle, Apa Thalpe is a boutique resort of just 7 rooms which look out over an infinity pool, and beyond to the ocean.

The pool at Apa Villa, Thalpe, South Coast, Sri Lanka (March 201

Each room has a small private courtyard with a table. There is no restaurant at the hotel, and instead all meals are served on your private terrace. You can order food at any time from 7.30am to 5.30pm during the day, and dinner is a selection of set menus catering to Western or Sri Lankan tastes which you pre-order during the afternoon. They can also cater to food restrictions including Vegan and Vegetarian on request. Each evening we put our son to bed, and enjoyed a Sri Lankan dinner together with our ocean view. It was the definition of luxury!

Past the courtyard you enter into a sitting area with a library. The owner of the hotel was the creator of the “Insight Guides” and there is a great collection of books and guides to browse through. Beyond the sitting area is the spacious bedroom with air conditioning (needed in this tropical climate) and luxurious double bathroom. The attention to detail with fresh flowers on the bed each day and cotton sheets is as you would expect from a top boutique hotel.

Next to the hotel is a small beach. While it is not a spectacular beach, it was nice for a stroll each morning to see the local fisherman.

Man walking along the beach next to Apa Villa, Thalpe

Man walking along the beach next to Apa Villa, Thalpe

Apa Villa, Illuketia
Our second 2 nights were spent at the sister property 5km away – Illuketia. Where Thalpe looks out over the coast, Illuketia is nestled into the forest. It was originally a manor house, and retains a period property feeling with antiques and mature gardens.

The swimming pool is surrounded by forest, and has a small shrine next to it – a perfect place for your morning yoga practice.

By the swimming pool at Illuketia, Apa Villas

By the swimming pool at Illuketia, Apa Villas

Illuketia features a cluster of tables with a view over the garden where meals are served, and while it misses the intimacy of the private terraces of Thalpe, it does offer a similarly delicious menu of Western and Sri Lankan meals to choose from and a kids menu if you are bringing children with you. The more communal restaurant, but similarly small scale of the hotel meant that we came in contact with other guests in the library and lounge with whom we shared a very enjoyable afternoon.

Apa Villa Illuketia during a rain storm

Apa Villa Illuketia during a rain storm

Out and About from Apa Villas
From Apa Villas there are a few day trips to choose from. The most obvious one is the 8km trip by car or rickshaw (tuk tuk) into Galle’s Historic Centre. While Galle Fort (which survived the 2004 Tsunami almost intact) is the draw card attraction, the historic centre is worth simply wandering around without a clear destination in mind. There are lovely little boutique shops, and plenty of cafes and restaurants to sate your hunger and thirst.

Liam watches the local ladies go by, Galle

Liam watches the local ladies go by, Galle

Dolphin and Whale watching
Another (longer) day trip option is along the coast to Mirissa to go whale and dolphin watching. Here we do recommend choosing your tour operator carefully and considering ethical considerations. We went with Raja and the Whales who adheres to global whale watching standards of respect for the whales and provides research data to various international marine wildlife research and conservation organisations.

Unfortunately from their boat we saw many other operators who weren’t as considerate to the whales and were chasing the whales and getting too close. This is surely distressing for these majestic creatures.

While we were never particularly close to any of the sperm whales, we did have 4 different sightings during the day, and had schools of dolphins swimming very close to our boat on several occasions. While we were most interested in seeing the whales, the dolphins were actually the highlight of the trip.

Dolphins off the coast of Mirissa

Dolphins off the coast of Mirissa

Other trips
Tuk tuk drivers and touts will also suggest that you visit the spice garden and the turtle hatcheries. We were briefly driven into the spice garden before insisting politely that we leave again, and also went to the turtle hatchery, but we found it very disappointing and even had ethical questions over the experience. The tanks are very small and while the hatchery claims that they dig up the turtle eggs to stop them being poached, we wondered if this were not a good reason for earning money from tourists and left feeling uncomfortable about having come.

Further along the South Coast
If you would like to extend your visit further along the coast, Talalla Beach, Weligama and Tangalle are both options further along the coast. Talalla Retreat was on our wish list (but was full during our visit), but we have heard good reviews from other people who were able to visit.

We stayed at Maya near Tangalle and enjoyed delicious food, with enough grass for our son to run around on, and a very inviting pool. It is a little way from the coast though, so you need your own transport to make the most of it.

A mother and her sons at Tangalle Beach

A mother and her sons at Tangalle Beach

Sri Lanka: a special destination
Sri Lanka really is a special destination; with delicious food, world class boutique hotels, a vibrant culture and stunning scenery. It is also small enough in scale that while you can’t see the whole countries in a trip of 10 days, you can pick areas of the country that you would like to focus on and see a big variety of countryside and sights.

It is a destination that you can consider with children. The people were very friendly – especially towards children – and catering to our sons food requests was never a problem.

In another post we share our experiences in the Cultural Triangle of Sri Lanka, which was similarly stunning.

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