Category Archives: Escape

Join us as we share our experiences in learning to live a healthier life. Including our explorations with Escaping the every day life – traveling the world and our neighbourhood.

Sun Temples and Salt Lakes, Gujarat

2nd October 2017Escape#breatheinalittlegujarat, #gujarat, escape, india, travelGenevieve

Driving on the salt lake at Little Rann, Gujarat, India (Februar

Rajastan, the Golden Triangle, and the Taj Mahal are all well known tourist attractions in India. Even Kerala is attracting a following to its backwaters. But India has so much more to offer, that is just a little off the beaten track and attracts far less tourists.

Breathe in a bit of Gujarat

Gujarat is a state best known in India for its industrious people. The home of top Industrialist Ratan Tata (Tata enterprises) and Mukesh Ambani (Reliance Industries), Gujarat has commerce in its blood. It is also the home state of India’s Prime Minister – Narendra Modi. To change the perception that the state is only worthy of traveling there for work, a certain (very big) Bollywood star got paid an obscene amount of money to say the now famous and often repeated words “Breathe in a bit of Gujarat”.

But Gujarat does have more to offer than its industrialists and their money making ability. It is a place full of history, was the home of Gandhi (you can visit his ashram in Ahmedabad) and is worth considering adding onto a longer trip that includes neighboring Rajastan.

The wonders of Gujarat

Bordering onto Pakistan in the north, Rajastan and Madhya Pradesh in the East, Maharashtra (Mumbai) in the South, and the Arabian sea in the West, Gujarat has a variety of landscape, historical and architectural wonders to visit. I am going to focus on the area from Ahmedabad North, known as the Little Rann of Kutch and shown on Google Maps as the “Wild Ass Sanctuary”.

Salt Lakes and Temples

Much less famous than it’s big brother (the Rann of Kutch) my colleagues and even a friendly Gujarati who offered me advice for the visit, assumed we were off to the big brother, despite my protests to the contrary that we were going to Little Rann.

Little Rann lies about 100km from Ahmedabad, through new housing developments, crop fields, and cows. We passed goods trains, trucks and camels as we wound our way through the countryside towards the desert.

Our accommodation was a bit of a surprise. Nestled in the fields down a small road, the dusty entrance wasn’t promising, but a few steps further mud bungalows curled around green lawns. A veritable oasis in the middle of nowhere. While they unfortunately didn’t feed us Gujarati food for dinner, the rooms and lawns at Rann Riders were certainly inviting.

Visiting the salt lakes
From Rann Riders we climbed into jeeps to drive from Dasada to the salt lake and Wild Ass sanctuary of Little Rann.

The driver stopped to point out migratory Cranes from Northern India and black winged ducks as we drove towards the flamingos on the drying up salt lake. Hundreds of them stood in the water, but as we tried to get a closer look the dried up mud gave way to slush and our feet got stuck. With a mud bath on our feet we headed off further in the jeep in search of the Wild Asses.

These beautiful white with black accented animals wandered in packs through the brush and sand looking for food. Wild antelope sheltered under a lone tree as the Asses ambled past.

Further along we came to the salt lakes where local men and women still till the salt by hand. Pulling rakes through the shallow water they spread out the salt to allow the sun to do the evaporation job, and collect up the salt into large sacks using minimal implements. Salt is one of the basic requirements for life, and its taxation and monopolization by the British led to the salt marches of Gandhi, one of the major resistances to British rule, which ultimately led to independence, starting right here in Gujarat.

We drove back through traditional villages. Outside mud huts women washed clothes and waved in our direction. Children carried stones on a metal plate on their heads towards men building water lines. A boy on a bicycle tottered to a stop to let us past, his load on the back was too big for the strength of his legs, and he wobbled across the road in our dust as we left. This Gujarat seems a long way from it’s fame as one of India’s best developed states.

Modhera Sun Temple
50km away the Modhera Sun Temple is virtually unknown outside this corner of India. Even a colleague who used to work in this part of Gujarat hadn’t heard of it, or the nearby Patan Temple.

Dating from 1000 AD it features a geometrically carved tank from which worshipers can purify themselves for the worship of the Hindu sun god Surya.

The temple itself is richly carved and there are also example of erotic art within the carving of the temple. At the time it was built it was seen as an act that brought about fertility and it was neither suppressed nor moralized. In fact it wasn’t until the British reign of Queen Victoria that such things became frowned upon and the long arm of the British empire had its effect in India as suggesting women should be covered, and erotic temple art frowned upon. Take a look at the exterior walls of the main temple itself to find it.

Detailed carvings adorn the Modhera Sun Temple, Gujarat, India (

We didn’t manage to fit in a trip up to Patan, but the Jain temple of Patan and Rani ki Vav stepwell are both worth seeing if you can fit them into your trip.

Adalaj Stepwell

Heading back towards Ahmedabad, the Adalaj Stepwell in Gandhinagar was built in 1499. Intricately carved, and five stories in depth, it was built by a Muslim king to collect rain water and has long been a stopping off point for travelers to cool down and collect water on their travels. In a state known for its droughts, water collection and protection has long been held high in importance, as the intricate carving on this beautiful stepwell shows.

It is still visited by travelers, although this has now resulted in it being unceremoniously positioned next to a bus stop. Crowds of locals shelter from the heat amoungst the cool shade of the stepwell. Cooled from below by the water, it is a welcome respite from the heat. Behind the stepwell a small park shelters those enjoying a picnic or a game of cricket before traveling further.

Stepwell, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India (February 2013)

To get a little further taste of Gujarat, you can enjoy Big B telling you a little bit more about “Breathing in a bit of Gujarat”

Architecture of Gujarat – including Modhera Sun Temple

Rann of Kutch

Gir Lions

Somnath Sun Temple

SaveSave

Safe Travel for Women in India

3rd August 2015Escape#safety, #women, delhi, escape, india, safe, travelGenevieve

Ambassador car on Raisina Hill, New Delhi, India (January 2013)

We lived for 2 years in India. To begin with I felt very safe. I didn’t mind traveling alone for work, I went up to the local mall in the evening, and I caught a taxi by myself on arrival in another city. But I got a lot of reactions from locals when I did that. My boss wanted me to SMS him on arrival at the airport and hotel when I traveled. Another colleague insisted on driving me to the airport himself. Women recounted their stories of “eve teasing” (sexual harassment) on buses throughout their teenage years, but still I felt safe.

I was under the illusion that because people were friendly and hospitable, because there was normally other people around, that I was safe. And try as they might, my colleagues couldn’t really convince me otherwise.

The first year went off incident free (well apart from that guy who liked staring at me rather than the road in Chennai, and the bunch of guys at the local mall who wouldn’t leave me alone, and the rickshaw drivers who looked like they were going to eat me with their eyes…)

But, ever since Nirbhaya (Jyoti Singh) was raped in a moving bus and dumped from it in Delhi (not far from our house) India has gotten its fair share of bad press for the safety of women. I have to admit, that Nirbhaya also altered my feeling of safety, and the way I conducted myself. Up until then I felt very safe, and was even a bit lax on my personal safety. After Nirbhaya I was very vigilant. After Nirbhaya I started listening to some of the advice I was given.

The succession of tourists who were raped while traveling, not just in Delhi but also in other parts of the country did not help. As a result the safety of women in particular has become a cause of concern for many people when considering a trip to India.

But it doesn’t need to be. Like traveling in any big city, it pays to take some precautions. Here are some tips, including ones we were given by locals, for traveling safely in India as a woman.

Taxi driving through Vasant Vihar, New Delhi, India (February 20

Get a local SIM card

Pre-paid local SIM cards are readily available at major airports. This not only means that you can more cost effectively call people in India, but you have an Indian number with which to book taxis. You can’t book with local cab companies without an Indian phone number, and this leaves you with less reputable cab companies and flagging down cars and rickshaws. If you get the attention I did in a cab, you can also pull out your phone and pretend to call someone waiting for you.

Take a reputable cab company

In major cities, Easy Cabs (+91-11-43434343) and Meru Cabs (+91-11-44224422) are a good choice, although the drivers will rarely speak very good English. You will need to get someone at your hotel (the doorman can normally do this for you) to tell them where you need to go, and give them directions on how to get there. Do expect that they will turn up a bit late (getting stuck in Delhi, Mumbai or Chennai traffic is a fact of life) so make sure you order them for half an hour earlier than you actually need them.

Or take a daily car rental

For daily car rentals, Swift has reliable drivers, and you can ask them for a driver who speaks English. (+91-11-48055555). Swift is not only available in 17 cities of India. I used them in Delhi and Chennai, but I can’t guarantee English speaking drivers in all the other cities.

While the English of the drivers won’t be perfect, it was always good enough to be able to explain to them (in simple language) where we wanted to go, and when they should be back to pick us up. If you do take this option, then make sure you have a local SIM card, and take the number of the driver. They will go away while you have your lunch, and you will need to be able to call them to come back and get you.

An "auto" in Vasant Vihar, New Delhi, India (February 2012)

Take a photo of the number plate

This is something I had never considered before moving to India, but it was advice that many people were very insistent on. In fact my boss insisted that I SMS him the number plate each time I was collected from the airport when I traveled. Taking the photograph means that he is aware that you are vigilant, and probably also that you know someone else to send it to. There is even an app for Indian Women’s safety that collects this up and tracks them. You are unlikely to use this as a tourist, but they will think you are using it.

Listen to your instincts, but don’t go overboard

If you feel uncomfortable in the car, then pull out your cellphone and make a call – even if it is only to the hotel you are traveling to – so that it appears that you know people and are being looked after. I was once in a car in Chennai and the driver had his rear view mirror trained on me. He spent more time looking at me than at the road. I started giving him instructions on how to drive, and called one of the guys where I was going to inform him that we were not far away so that the driver knew I was being expected. It was enough to get his eyes back on the road.

Driving down Raisina Hill, New Delhi, India (January 2013)

Don’t take a cab on your own at night

Unless you hire a multi-day driver from Swift and are confident in your driver, it is best to avoid traveling at night on your own. Get someone to drop you off at your hotel, accompany you to your hotel before traveling on to their own, or take dinner in your hotel. I created a lot of concern by driving myself in India, but I preferred to drive myself or use my own driver at night rather than take a cab. (I don’t recommend you drive yourself on a visit, the traffic is a real experience…)

If you are traveling from city to city, book a car to collect you

The craziest part of travel in India is often the rugby scrum for a rickshaw or taxi as you step out of the train station or the airport. You can save a lot of hassle by booking a car in advance to collect you – they will hold up a name board – and having a destination hotel for your city of arrival. This saves you getting caught by touts (who earn a commission on the hotel they take you to) and ending up with a driver you don’t feel comfortable with. Often the hotel will send a driver for you (for a fee) if you ask them to.

Take the ladies section

The Delhi Metro is rightly the pride of Delhi, but “eve teasing” (sexual harassment) as it is known in India is a little too prevalent. Avoid this by taking the ladies only carriage. Avoid the buses. The safety record of the green buses is appalling (they run over too many pedestrians) and you are unlikely to be helped if “eve teasing” starts on the buses. In Delhi, stick to the metro and taxis. In other cities, stick to taxis. They are anyway very cheap.

Take a sense of humour with you

Travel in India is an adventure, in so many senses of the word. So many things are not as you expect, and approaching it with a healthy sense of humour will get you through so many situations. Don’t mention that you are just visiting, fake being an expat, say “challo” if you want someone to go away, and enjoy the ride of wonderful, crazy, magical India!

I loved living there. I love visiting there still. I became more cautious about traveling on my own as a result of living in India and Jyoti Singh, but I wouldn’t avoid going out of concern. A lot of people will genuinely offer you help and hospitality too. India is a wonderful place with wonderfully warm people. Enjoy!

Two men on a bus, Nataraj temple, Chidambaram, Tamil Nadu, India

Our favourite coffees of Singapore

26th May 2015Escape@strangersReunion, #Cafe, #commonman, #deptofcaffeine, #justwantcoffee, #thePlain, 40hands, coffee, CSHH, escape, jewel, letoile, singapore, travelGenevieve

Singapore is a such a stop over destination. On the way between Europe and the Pacific, transit hub between many Asian destinations, and an often visited business destination. What ever your reason for visiting (or living in) Singapore, a mini break to a great coffee bar is a nice way to Escape.

Here are some of our favourite cafes of Singapore for a great cup of coffee.

40 Hands (78 Yong Siak Street, Tiong Bahru ) was established in 2010 (and that is a long time in the hospitality industry), 40 hands was one of the original coffee bars that aimed to bring high quality coffee, or known origins to Singapore. Over this time, its presence has also turned Yong Siak Street in Tiong Bahru into a trendy street that is worthy of an afternoons stroll. Nearby “Books Actually” bookstore is also a great place to sift through the shelves for gifts or unusual books, such as the “Alter SG” guide to Singapore.

La Ristrettos (8th floor, Novena Medical Centre, enter from Novena Square – Square 2 shopping centre) has virtually become our local coffee shop. With coffee roasted on site, the owner really knows his coffee, and makes a great espresso. Located in a slightly strange location on the 8th floor of a medical building, it does share an outside courtyard where you can sit in a little oasis in the sun and enjoy your coffee or tea.

Dutch Coffee Colony (Pasarbella: 200 Turfclub Rd) imports beans from around the world, and uses a number of different types of coffee brewing methods to create delicious coffees. Located within the PasarBella Food Market, it goes from bean to cup to create smooth tasting coffees. You can buy different coffee brewing machines and their imported beans.

Chye Seng Huat Hardware (CSHH coffee bar, 150 Tyrwhitt Road) got its name from the hardware store that stood in this location before it turned into a high end coffee joint. From the same owners as Papa Palheta and Loysel’s Toy. This flagship store features a coffee roaster, an island coffee bar, a coffee school and a private coffee tasting room. It’s a convenient spot to stop for a good coffee when you’re exploring Little India.

Just Want Coffee (1 Everton Park) located in the ground floor of a renovated HDB (housing building), Just Want Coffee is a cosy little cafe to have a chat and watch the world go by. Brewing a nice cup of coffee or tea, it has a relaxed informal feeling to it and music to match. Just what we love in a local coffee shop.

Just want coffee cafe at Everton Park Singapore

Common Man Coffee Roasters (22 Martin Rd) is the same owner as 40 hands, and you will see their coffee in many other cafes around Singapore. Including a café, coffee bar, and wholesale coffee roasting service, Common Man knows a thing or two about coffee, and it doesn’t brew a bad cup either.

Letoile Cafe (160 Owen rd) is a cute little cafe, with a chill out space on the second floor. A strange combination of Japanese and French influences, it (unlike the rest of this list) is actually a place to go for the food and the ambience rather than the coffee. It can’t compete with the other coffees on this list, but it is a great cafe to hang out in and escape the city.

Jewel Cafe and Bar (129 Rangoon Rd) is located not far from Letoile Cafe in Farrer Park. With an extensive menu (including the delicious Red Mullet Fish salad), and an industrial feel, it is a great place near Little India for a coffee. It’s a bit on the expensive side though.

The Plain (50 Craig Rd) serving Genovese coffees, The Plain is a great place to sit down while you explore the Duxton Hill and Tanjong Pagar neighbourhood. The menu is not particularly inspiring, but it does do a great cup of coffee. It can be a bit hard to find but it is located next to the antique shop with the large yellow banner.

Stranger’s Reunion (35 Kampong Bahru Rd) was opened by Ryan Kieran Tan, Singapore National Barista Champion 2011 & 2012. In a row of beautiful shophouses and with an adjoining cafe serving waffles, it serves the top coffees you would expect of a Barista champion. It is not far from the Outram Park Metro station.

The Clueless Goat (189 Thomson Road, ) has become our new local. Recently opened in Novena, and across the road from the Novena Square Shopping Centre, the young owners brew a great cup of coffee that has us as repeat visitors. Its relaxed vibe and friendly staff is really refreshing. And our 6 year old son is a big fan of their waffles 🙂

Department of Caffeine (15 Duxton rd) has a great little location tucked away in Duxton Road. With an industrial feel to it, and a short walk from the shophouses of Duxton Hill, it is a great stop off location between Chinatown and Tanjong Pagar.

Snorkeling Pulau Bunaken, Indonesia

16th May 2015Escapebunaken, dive, diving, escape, indonesia, pulau, snorkeling, sulawesi, travelGenevieve

Pulau Bunaken is an island off the coast of Sulawesi in Indonesia. Sulawesi lies next to Borneo, and is approximately 1700 km from North to South as you can drive it.

Getting there and away
A flight from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur (Silk Air, Air Asia, Garuda) into Manado leaves you a half our drive and 40 minute boat ride from the island and some of the most spectacular diving and snorkeling in the world. Boats to the island can either be arranged through your hotel, or there are both private boats and a regular ferry service from the Manado harbour to Bunaken and Siladen.

Accommodation options are available on Bunaken, Siladen or on the mainland in Manado. We stayed at the “4 Fish Hotel” in Tongkaiana which allowed us to go over to Bunaken and Siladen, but also explore the volcanoes and markets around Manado. The 4 Fish can be booked through Booking.com or Agoda. We also had lunch at the Siladen Resort Hotel, and if you are looking to go a bit up market, then this is a beautiful choice with a very nice pool, spa and close to the Siladen reef.

Where to go snorkeling
Pulau Bunaken and Pulau Siladen are small islands, surrounded by coral walls. These walls house drop off to around 30m, and house an abundance of life. They are inhabited by a myriad of fish, turtles and sharks. Sea snakes can also be seen amoungst the reefs.

Lekuan 1, 2 & 3, Tengah and Bunaken Timur 1 & 2 are the best places for Snorkeling on Bunaken. For Siladen, jump off the jetty and follow the current down the wall to the old jetty. It is quite a distance and there is an abundance of life in the shallows above the reef, and along the wall. Be conscious of the currents (especially with children) as they can be quite strong when the tide is turning.

If you are looking for even more diving or snorkeling options, you can also head across to the other side of the peninsular to the lesser visited Lembeh Straight, which also has spectacular diving spots.

What to pack
We were traveling with 3 children this time – 12, 8 and 6 years old. For our 6 year old son we had flippers, and this helped in the stronger currents. It also helps to get them confident swimming in a snorkel in a swimming pool before you go.

A rash shirt is essential to avoid sunburn and avoid touching the corals. I also wore yoga pants while snorkeling as I am prone to burning. If you have your own snorkeling gear then it is a good idea to take it with you as the gear available for hire is not necessarily the best quality.

Please be careful not to touch the coral. It is not stone and you will damage it, but there are also fire corals that leave your skin very swollen and itchy if you brush against it. “Mopiko” anti itch cream which you can pick up in the pharmacy at Singapore Airport is quite effective against the itch if you do end up touching the fire coral.

Plastic pollution is a real problem in Indonesia, please don’t add to it by throwing your plastics into the sea. Take your rubbish with you back to your hotel rather than leaving them on the boat.

Enjoy!
We had an absolutely brilliant time snorkeling around Pulau Bunaken and Siladen. Swimming hand in hand along the reef with my 6 year old son, with a myriad of fish around us, in a life sized aquarium was an experience that will be long remembered.

Time for a virtual holiday

23rd April 2015Escape#island, #travelerschoice, #tripadvisor, #youchoose, escape, travelGenevieve

Little island in the Secret Gili Islands, Sekotong, Lombok Islan

As part of its annual Travelers Choice Awards, Trip Advisor has released its list of the top 10 islands to visit.

Here are the Top Travelers’ Choice Islands around the world:

Providenciales, Turks and Caicos
Maui, Hawaii
Roatan, Honduras
Santorini, Greece
Ko Tao, Thailand
Madeira, Portugal
Bali, Indonesia
Mauritius, Africa
Bora Bora, French Polynesia
Fernando de Noronha, Brazil

We miss a few in this list, and have a little question on Santorini. Sure, you can take amazing photos of the beautiful white buildings that tumble down the hills, but you are also sharing it with those who step off their cruises and overtake the island each day.

We’d love to see some more off the beaten track experiences included, so we’d love to hear your suggestions for Top 10 islands to visit.

From Cherry Chuleekorn for Thailand:

1) Ko Kood island, Trat province – my recently new favorite island. They have many local hotels and resorts, the most popular is Captain Hook resort. They selling package of 3D2N all included i.e. speedboat from land, all meals and tea breaks (it’s not a soft break, it’s a hard break hahaha) and including activities like Kayaking and snorkeling (good for first timer because the underwater is not great for those who have already been snorkeling in other good places before). It is definitely good for families, groups but not recommended for those who are seeking privacy and quiet.

For privacy, very quiet and cool and creative place, I would recommend to stay at Baan Makok! It’s a small place (5-8 rooms) located deep down the canal which connects to the sea. Quiet, peaceful and canal is clean. I love swimming in the canal in front of hotel. You can also kayak to the end of canal as well. I like this place so much. and sure that you will like it too. The hotel’s owner are advertising people, you can imagine how chic they are?

For premium person… Tingle Bell is a good choice, they have good standard of hotel service and amenities. Located next to the beach. The best sunset view is here!

2) Similan island in Krabi province. My all time favorite island. Best view over both the sea and underwater. Here you need to book the room or tent from National park organization. Good season is October – April. During June-Sep, the island might be in the closing period.

From Fabia Bueno Tetteroo for Brazil and Philipinnes:

In Brasil, not a so secret one, super protected but wonderful is Fernando de Noronha.

Also, in between Rio and São Paulo there are many small islands that you can go for a day trip. Departing from Ilha Bela is an option

In Philippines, Camiguin and Busuanga. Very reserved. Not many tourists

From us:

We love Indonesia, and with over 7000 islands to explore there are so many different options that you could choose from. We loved snorkeling in Pulau Bunaken (off the coast of Sulawesi island), but the secret Gili islands off the coast of South Lombok or the Gili islands between Lombok and Bali are also good choices.

For the secret Gilis we stayed at Cocotinos Sekotong hotel. From here you can do diving trips, or you can hire a local boat to take you to the islands snorkeling. From the wharf (photo below) you can also snorkel amoungst fish.

For the Gilis islands we stayed at Mahamaya Resort on Gili Meno – you can snorkel off the beach to see turtles and coral. It is an eco-resort which harvests rainwater. The party island of Gili Trawangan is a 15 minute boat ride away if you feel like a night out, but we preferred dinner on the beach with the superb cooking of their restaurant and watching the sunset. Bliss!

We can’t wait for our next excuse to visit Indonesia!

The Cultural Triangle, Sri Lanka

13th April 2015Escape#buddha, #buddhist, #culture, #dambulla, #kalundewaretreat, #kandy, #polonnaruwa, #sigiriya, #srilanka, kalundewa, Relic, retreat, rosa, Sacred, Temple, Tooth, villaGenevieve

North of Colombo
From Colombo we headed north for a week. You could also do the same, or combine it with the South Coast of Sri Lanka route (in a separate post) in order to create a 2 week trip to Sri Lanka. On this trip we went from Colombo to Kandy and then up to Dambulla. From Dambulla you can make 3 stunning day trips – to Sigiriya, Pollonnaruwa and Anuradhapura (preferably overnight rather than a day trip).

Colombo to Kandy
Colombo airport is north of Colombo near the coastal town of Negombo. Because you don’t have to drive through Colombo, it is a relatively straight forward drive of 3 hours up to Kandy.

Logistics
There are 2 main options when it comes to transport – hire a car and driver (for about USD70 per day), or ask your hotel to collect you from the airport. For Colombo to Kandy a car collecting you will cost around USD100, but you won’t need a car for the days that you stay in Kandy (you can use a rickshaw / tuk tuk arranged by the hotel to get around as it is not particularly big.)

Alternative you can hire a car and self drive although you need a GPS as while the roads are good, the signage is not particularly. There are several rental hire places located in the airport terminal.

Rickshaw and Bus on Dalada Vidiya street, Kandy

Kandy, pilgrimage city
Kandy is a UNESCO World heritage site, and hill town best known for the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic. This is a beautiful pilgrimage site and we spent quite a while wandering around and exploring it. (Do remember to dress modestly and cover your legs and shoulders. You will also be asked to remove your shoes and check them in before entering the temple).

Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, Kandy

Said to house a tooth of the Buddha, it is the most important Buddhist site in Sri Lanka. Upon entry we were greeted by drummers and followed the pilgrims up the stairs. There was a long queue of women with flowers in their hair and men dressed to pay their respects carrying lotus blossoms and frangipani. Beyond the main hall is a large, open aired meeting hall, and a separate hall housing Buddha statues and beautiful painted scenes from the Ramayana.

Inspired by an episode of Peter Kuruvita’s cooking show where he visited the temple and found a quiet niche in which to pay his respects to his departed father, we also found a site of solitude within the walls of the temple, which despite it being a busy attraction is quite possible to do. There are very tranquil areas with monks in prayers that were a pleasure to seek out.

At the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic

Around Kandy
From Kandy I did a half day tour by Tuk Tuk / rickshaw through the countryside to visit 2 other temples; Lankatilake and Gadaladeniya Temples.

Gadaladeniya Temple is a relatively simple stupa (rounded temple shape) structure which had a roof constructed over it to protect it from the elements when I visited. The site is Buddhist, but there is also a Hindu annex at the back. The location is very peaceful with lotus blossoms growing amoungst the ponds, and it was a nice pause on the way to Lankatilake.

You approach Lankatilake through rice paddies, and past a small school. It is set on the top of a hill with a magnificent view over the fields. At the front of the temple is a locked room containing a Buddha image surrounded by painted walls. The monk opened the room for me to have a look, and explained that it was from the 7th century. The gold embossed walls on a dark red background were very beautiful, and it was all the more special for being in there alone with the monk.

Buddha sancturm, Lankatilake temple

The temple also features carved elephants, Kandy period paintings, a Hindu praying area and rock face inscriptions. There were hardly any other people visiting while I was there and it was very atmospheric. Actually it was one of the highlights of my trip because of its simplicity and location.

Pilgrims, Lankatilake temple, Kandy

Pilgrims, Lankatilake temple

Villa Rosa Hotel
In Kandy we stayed at Villa Rosa hotel. Situated on top of a hill it has beautiful views out over the valley beyond from the restaurant and many of the rooms. The food was very good (although we only ate Sri Lankan food while we were there) and the room was generous in size and decorated with local antiques. There is also a library area where you can relax, and a large enough piece of grass for a little football game for Liam.

View from Villa Rosa Hotel in Kandy

Kandy to Dambulla
From Kandy to Dambulla we again asked the hotel to arrange us a car and driver. It is around a 2 hour drive, but it took us longer as we stopped at Aluvihara Monastery on the way.

Aluvihara Monastery has a series of caves featuring reclining Buddhas amidst painted rooms, and some bizarre scenes of devils meting out punishments to sinners (not for kids – although they can enjoy the rest of the monastery). Attractively located amoungst large boulders which have fallen from the nearby mountain. We climbed up onto one of them for beautiful views to the mountain, but you could also climb further up to the large Buddha statue further up the hill for more views if you wish.

Golden Buddha, Aluvihara monastery, near Dambulla

Dambulla Cave Temples
The highlight of a trip to Dambulla are the Cave Temples. As we hiked up to them, we paused to look back towards Sigiriya Rock which is clearly visible some 20km away. The history of these caves is thought to date back to the 1st century BC, but the Buddha statues and wall paintings are remarkably well preserved given this long history. In total there are 5 caves and some 150 Buddha images.

We combined it with our drive up from Kandy and stopping in Aluvihara to make a rather long (and hot) day, but it is quite possible to do this if you are on a tight schedule. (Don’t forget to bring your own water with you though, as the site is exposed to the sun during your walk.)

Inside one of the Dambulla cave temples, Sri Lanka

Kalundewa retreat
Our hotel in Kalundewa is one of our stand out hotels in Asia. Our room was one of 2 in a glass box sitting in the middle of a small lake. You share the living room and plunge pool, but when we were visiting we were the only guests booked in. The hotel has other rooms that are bungalows nestled amoungst the rice fields. Hornbill birds were flying around our room at dusk, and we walked amoungst the rice fields while we waited for dinner. It was quite magical!

Kalundewa Retreat hotel, Dambulla

Malabar Hornbill birds, Kalundewa Retreat hotel, Dambulla

Dambulla day trip to Sigiriya
From Dambulla to Sigiriya is a half hour drive. From there we walked up to the top of the grand rock and enjoy the rock paintings on the way, and the ruins of an old palace or temple (the exact origin is disputed) that sits atop it. The views over the surrounding countryside are quite stunning, and the walk up was well worth it.

Sigiriya Rock

Cave rock paintings, Sigiriya Rock

Polonaruwa, heritage city
Polonaruwa is a former capital city of Sri Lanka and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is around 1 1/2 hours drive from Dambulla and you can easily spend a day wandering around it. We tried to squeeze it into the second half of our day trip to Sigiriya, but it was a bit tight. We were very hungry and tired from walking up the rock, and ended up rushing it more than it deserved.

That said, it was well worth the trip. At around 1000 years old, it is quite well preserved, although on a smaller scale to Anuradhapura (which we did not end up visiting, but would love to go back to visit).

The Royal Palace Group, Quadrangle area and Gal Vihara were stand out areas of the ruins, with the last housing beautiful buddha images which are housed under a roof to protect them from the elements.

Vatadage Quadrangle, Polonnaruwa

Gal Vihara, Polonnaruwa

Sri Lanka, a gem to be explored futher
Somehow Sri Lanka has captured a little piece of our heart. It is a place that we would love to go back to again and explore even further. Anuradhapura, The Horton Plains National Park and World’s End, and Ula Walawe National park with its elephants are all still on our wish list. So who knows, maybe we will have to plan another escape back to Sri Lanka soon.

4 days in Georgetown, Malaysia

9th April 2015Escapeart, atelier, china, chong fat tze, coffee, georgetown, house, malaysia, penang, restaurant, sen, seven, street, tek, terracesGenevieve

Georgetown: a melting pot of cultures
Originally established as a trading post by the British, Georgetown (Penang) attracted a melting pot of traders. Like Singapore, Georgetown has its heart in Malaysia, but also drew a community of Chinese traders, and like Singapore these too are Straights Chinese or Peranakans (Nonya’s).

Indians – both traders and workers – also came to George Town, and built a community. Dominated by Muslim and Hindu Tamils, but also home to Gujaratis, Malayalams, Bengalis, and Indians from other parts of India. They built a community that still exists (and is protected in its existence) until today.

It is this unique blend of cultures within a relatively small area, and the historic buildings that symbolize their long term co-existence that has made George Town into a Unesco World Heritage site (since 2008). In announcing its entry into the list of World Heritage sites it was described as an “inspiration” to others how this melting pot could co-exist and thrive for so long. Long may it last.

Sri Mariamman Temple

Coffee Atelier Hotel
We booked in to stay at the “Coffee Atelier” in George Town. It is right in the heart of the Old Town (47 Lorong Stewart Street), and housed within the walls of a former shop house that has been restored and converted into a restaurant and 4 apartments. Our room included a large main room, and a separate single bed for our son in an adjoining ante-room. Free wifi was also included.

While it was a little noisy (old buildings don’t tend to have the best sound proofing) it was the perfect place to stay in such a historic town. Just down the road was Little India and China Town, the Kapitan Keling mosque, Sri Mahamariamman Hindu temple and Chinese temples.

Downstairs is also a Coffee Atelier cafe which serves delicious coffees, including latte art. It was a great place to enjoy dinner after a day of walking in the city, and breakfast at the cafe was included in the hotel price.

Old shophouses in Lorong Stewart Street

Obsessed with Food
This similar melting pot of cultures to Singapore, means that the food also shares common origins, and George Town seems to also share its obsession with food. In fact it is the food, as much as the buildings, that will remain with us as impressions after we leave.

Tek Sen Restaurant
During our stay we enjoyed cheap and delicious Chinese food at Tek Sen Restaurant in a converted shophouse (18 Lebuh Carnarvon). While the restaurant is anything but fancy, with plastic tables and chairs, the food was delicious and very affordable. Shortly after 6pm a sizable queue had formed with locals waiting for their dinner on their way home from work – always a good sign!

Tek Sen Restaurant

Seven Terraces
Our dinner at Seven Terraces hotel in the Kebaya restaurant (Lorong Stewart) is perhaps at the other end of the scale in terms of price, but still reasonable compared to eating in Singapore or Amsterdam. It uses French techniques fused with Indonesian and Straights Chinese flavours for a refined dinner on good linen with beautiful china crockery. The 4 course degustion menu is designed to be shared in the Chinese style, exactly the way we love to eat.

Seven Terraces is across the street from the Coffee Atelier, and is also a nice alternative for a hotel if you are looking to stay in the historic centre but go a little upmarket.

China House
China House was a great little place that we discovered by accident, but went back to eat at twice. It is a great option for lunch after you are finished exploring Lorong Chulia and the Street art around Lebuh Armenian. Located at 155 Beach Street, it serves Western food with a diverse set of Asian and Middle Eastern influences – Fusion food. Think Thai Style Chicken Salad with Macademia Nuts or a daily special menu of asian flavours served in a bento box.

I love it that they put paper down on the tables and encourage you to draw on them – something my son thoroughly enjoyed!

Drawing at ChinaHouse Restaurant, Beach Road

Out and about around Georgetown
The advantage of staying in the middle of the historic centre is that there is so much that you can do on foot.

On the first day, try exploring the area around Lebuh Armenian and Lorong Chulia. They are great places to wander and poke your head into boutiques. Also look out for the street art in the side streets around this area. There is a free street art map that you can pick up at many hotels.

The Clan Jetties near the end of Lebuh Armenian on Pengkalan Wald are also worth exploring, but please do respect that people live here and that you are visiting their homes.

Those interested in Chinese History can visit the home of Sun Yat Sen at 120 Lebuh Armenian. Considered one of the father’s of modern China, he led the Chinese revolution to found the modern Republic, and served briefly as the President of China. He lived in Georgetown in exile for 6 months.

Step by Step Lane streetart

On the second day, try going in the other direction towards the Eastern and Oriental Hotel (Lebuh Farquhar) to stroll along the coast and enjoy a high tea. Not far away is Chong Fat Tze historic home (Leith Street), and the Hainan Temple (Jalan Muntri). There are many eating choices on Jalan Muntri for lunch. End by exploring the little shops on Love Lane.

Eastern Oriental Hotel, Lenuh Farquhar, by the harbour

Logistics
Our trip to Georgetown was for a long weekend (4 days) while we were living in Singapore. You could consider this as part of a longer trip to Malaysia as well if you are living further away. We flew from Singapore to Penang with Jetstar, but Tiger Air, Air Asia and Silk Air also all fly this route. We arranged a taxi through the hotel to collect us from the airport and take us to the hotel in Georgetown. It is a 16km journey which takes 20-30 minutes depending on traffic and costs 35-40 Malaysian Ringgit.

We had a great time in Georgetown. It was an easy long weekend destination that can easily be enjoyed on foot. The diversity of the food and street art were definitely highlights.

Rickshaw streetart, Jalan Penang, Chinatown

On retreat, South Coast, Sri Lanka

7th April 2015Escapeapa, boutique, galle, hotel, illuketia, lanka, sri, thalpe, villaGenevieve

One of the joys of living in Singapore is that travel in Asia is so accessible. New Year, Chinese New Year, and Easter are great opportunities for a longer trip away within Asia, without having to spend too many of your vacation days.

For one of these longer weekends we decided to go to Sri Lanka for 7 days to enjoy the coastline from Galle along the coast. This could also be done from a further away location for 6-10 days depending on your travel time.

Travel logistics
We flew into Colombo on Sri Lankan airlines, which offers some excellent flight deals to Sri Lanka from many destinations (we flew there on good deals from Delhi and Singapore). It is a full service airline with check in luggage and full meals (note: we have no relationship with this airline).

From Colombo over the new highway to Galle is a 3 1/2 hour drive by car. Cars to drive you to Galle from the airport can be arranged through the hotel for USD$100-120, or you can also arrange private car hire for USD$70 per day for your entire trip.

On our first trip we hired a car and driver for the whole trip, but were not satisfied with our driver and ended up firing him and hiring a different car and driver from each location to the next through the hotel. While the day rate is slightly more expensive than $70 per day, we saved on the days that we did not need a car and could use a local taxi or tuk tuk instead, and so the total cost was about the same. You can consider both options depending on your preference.

Galle, South Coast of Sri Lanka
We started the trip near Galle staying at the two properties of Apa Villas. Just 8km from UNESCO heritage site listed Galle, Apa Thalpe is a boutique resort of just 7 rooms which look out over an infinity pool, and beyond to the ocean.

Each room has a small private courtyard with a table. There is no restaurant at the hotel, and instead all meals are served on your private terrace. You can order food at any time from 7.30am to 5.30pm during the day, and dinner is a selection of set menus catering to Western or Sri Lankan tastes which you pre-order during the afternoon. They can also cater to food restrictions including Vegan and Vegetarian on request. Each evening we put our son to bed, and enjoyed a Sri Lankan dinner together with our ocean view. It was the definition of luxury!

Past the courtyard you enter into a sitting area with a library. The owner of the hotel was the creator of the “Insight Guides” and there is a great collection of books and guides to browse through. Beyond the sitting area is the spacious bedroom with air conditioning (needed in this tropical climate) and luxurious double bathroom. The attention to detail with fresh flowers on the bed each day and cotton sheets is as you would expect from a top boutique hotel.

Next to the hotel is a small beach. While it is not a spectacular beach, it was nice for a stroll each morning to see the local fisherman.

Man walking along the beach next to Apa Villa, Thalpe

Apa Villa, Illuketia
Our second 2 nights were spent at the sister property 5km away – Illuketia. Where Thalpe looks out over the coast, Illuketia is nestled into the forest. It was originally a manor house, and retains a period property feeling with antiques and mature gardens.

The swimming pool is surrounded by forest, and has a small shrine next to it – a perfect place for your morning yoga practice.

By the swimming pool at Illuketia, Apa Villas

Illuketia features a cluster of tables with a view over the garden where meals are served, and while it misses the intimacy of the private terraces of Thalpe, it does offer a similarly delicious menu of Western and Sri Lankan meals to choose from and a kids menu if you are bringing children with you. The more communal restaurant, but similarly small scale of the hotel meant that we came in contact with other guests in the library and lounge with whom we shared a very enjoyable afternoon.

Apa Villa Illuketia during a rain storm

Out and About from Apa Villas
From Apa Villas there are a few day trips to choose from. The most obvious one is the 8km trip by car or rickshaw (tuk tuk) into Galle’s Historic Centre. While Galle Fort (which survived the 2004 Tsunami almost intact) is the draw card attraction, the historic centre is worth simply wandering around without a clear destination in mind. There are lovely little boutique shops, and plenty of cafes and restaurants to sate your hunger and thirst.

Liam watches the local ladies go by, Galle

Dolphin and Whale watching
Another (longer) day trip option is along the coast to Mirissa to go whale and dolphin watching. Here we do recommend choosing your tour operator carefully and considering ethical considerations. We went with Raja and the Whales who adheres to global whale watching standards of respect for the whales and provides research data to various international marine wildlife research and conservation organisations.

Unfortunately from their boat we saw many other operators who weren’t as considerate to the whales and were chasing the whales and getting too close. This is surely distressing for these majestic creatures.

While we were never particularly close to any of the sperm whales, we did have 4 different sightings during the day, and had schools of dolphins swimming very close to our boat on several occasions. While we were most interested in seeing the whales, the dolphins were actually the highlight of the trip.

Dolphins off the coast of Mirissa

Other trips
Tuk tuk drivers and touts will also suggest that you visit the spice garden and the turtle hatcheries. We were briefly driven into the spice garden before insisting politely that we leave again, and also went to the turtle hatchery, but we found it very disappointing and even had ethical questions over the experience. The tanks are very small and while the hatchery claims that they dig up the turtle eggs to stop them being poached, we wondered if this were not a good reason for earning money from tourists and left feeling uncomfortable about having come.

Further along the South Coast
If you would like to extend your visit further along the coast, Talalla Beach, Weligama and Tangalle are both options further along the coast. Talalla Retreat was on our wish list (but was full during our visit), but we have heard good reviews from other people who were able to visit.

We stayed at Maya near Tangalle and enjoyed delicious food, with enough grass for our son to run around on, and a very inviting pool. It is a little way from the coast though, so you need your own transport to make the most of it.

A mother and her sons at Tangalle Beach

Sri Lanka: a special destination
Sri Lanka really is a special destination; with delicious food, world class boutique hotels, a vibrant culture and stunning scenery. It is also small enough in scale that while you can’t see the whole countries in a trip of 10 days, you can pick areas of the country that you would like to focus on and see a big variety of countryside and sights.

It is a destination that you can consider with children. The people were very friendly – especially towards children – and catering to our sons food requests was never a problem.

In another post we share our experiences in the Cultural Triangle of Sri Lanka, which was similarly stunning.

Traveling with kids, 2-5 years

23rd March 2015Escapechildren, escape, kids, travel, traveling, withGenevieve

Let me start by being honest. We have ended up traveling far more with our son than we ever expected to, and we have taken him to far more “adventurous” places than we had ever expected to before he was born. My husband and I met traveling, and it is something that we enjoy doing together. But there were trips that we thought we should do before we had children – like going to India.

When we moved to India when Liam was 2 ½ years old, we blew that perception out of the water. As a result, living in India changed our boundaries of what we were prepared to do with him. Each trip got us more creative and taught us more about how to do it so that he also enjoyed it, and it was safe for him as well. As a result Liam can now write a list of the 21 countries that he has visited, and we keep planning the next vacation.

So let’s get traveling – these are our top 10 tips for traveling with a 2-5 year old.

1) Travel light

Traveling with a 2-5 year old is a handful. Possibly even more so than when they are younger. The more active they get, the more that they want to run at the airport, explore at the hotel reception desk, and find out what is going on just around that corner where you can’t see them anymore.

Traveling light means that you can divide and conquer – one of you looks after the luggage, and checking in at the airport and hotel, while the other keeps the kid(s) entertained. Consider critically what you can leave behind to get it down to 2 bags – one for each hand. I leave it up to you how big those 2 bags are, but for us they are 2 cabin bags (55cm) – one for him, and one for us that we share for a trip of up to 2 weeks.

2) Pack a selection of small toys

Packing light means getting creative on what toys to take with you, and which ones to leave behind. We have a small zip up black bag (about A4 in size) that Liam is allowed to pack on his own. We encourage him to fill it with cards, matchbox toys, and puzzles (which we take out of the boxes and pack in zip lock sandwich bags).

Next to his special pouch of toys we have an A5 size bag which holds a couple of colouring books, paper and crayons or felt tip pens for him to draw with. Taking drawing materials is really versatile, because he can use it in the plane, a restaurant, or a hotel room. We also take a small football (15cm diameter) everywhere that we travel too. It is amazing how many hours a ball can fill at a hotel, and how little grass it takes to create a game.

Maybe this is a little controversial, but he also has an IPad with games on it to play with. We try to limit its use to 30 minutes per day, but on travel days – when he is in a plane or a long car ride – we are a little less strict in how long he is allowed to play on it.

3) Take books for take-off and landing

Whether you agree with taking an iPad or not, there is one time it absolutely can’t be used – and that is the 30 minutes each side of take-off and landing. We always have a selection of 10 small books with us (Thomas the Tank Engine) that we can read to him while we are taking off and landing. He can choose which one gets read next, and it keeps both of us distracted for the first hour of the flight.

4) Explain to your child where you are going and what is special about it

Lots of people are amazed at the places that we have traveled to with Liam, and I admit, trips around India, Nepal and Oman were not what we were expecting to do with a child. However, they were all possible and safe, and enjoyable for him and us, and he has the most amazing understanding of Geography as a result.

But he hasn’t enjoyed the trips and learned this on his own. We have made a conscious decision to use our travels as a way to teach him about the world. We tell him where he is going, we show it to him on a map, we explain to him what is special about where he is going, and why he is so lucky to be able to go there. As a result he excitedly talks about trips he has taken to Mumbai and Dubai long after the trip instead of complaining that he didn’t get to go to the pool or the beach like the other kids in his class.

It doesn’t matter whether your next trip is as exotic as Mumbai or Dubai or not, the idea is just that you talk to them about how lucky they are to get to travel with you, what they are going to get to see, and how that is special for them.

5) Let them know what is in it for them

Kids (at least our one) are amazing little negotiators. They can bargain and blackmail us from the time that they can talk. With Liam we make deals. Each day he will join us to do things that we want to do, and then we will do one thing that he wants to do. It goes a bit like this “Yes, you can play in the pool this afternoon, but first we are going to go and see X, Y and Z in the city. We will be back for your swimming by 4pm.” Or “Today we are going to see X, Y, and Z, we found a great park in between where you can play with your ball after lunch before we go from Y to Z.”

6) Get a collapsible stroller

Our first trips were done with a big stroller that was difficult to check in, and even more difficult if we had to take a taxi somewhere. That was something we were prepared to manage in the 0-2 age group, but after his second birthday we traded it in for a smaller model. We bought a

Traveling with kids, 0-2 years

23rd March 2015Escape0-2, baby, child, tips, top 10, travelGenevieve

The first flight our son took was a 2 months old. Before my maternity leave ran out, I decided we should make the most of my time off and take a trip to somewhere that we had wanted to go for a while – to Sicily. After that we have just kept traveling with him, and each time we learn a little more, and adapt to him getting a little bit older. Here are our top 10 tips for traveling with children aged 0-2.

1) Pack light and free one persons hands to look after the child(ren)
Blame it on having met backpacking, but we like to travel light. Traveling with our son hasn’t changed this, in fact it has made us stricter on it. Two adults and a child means that one adult has to have their hands free for the child(ren), and the other has to arrange all the luggage.

We have got it down to a fine art and travel with one 55cm cabin bag for Liam, and another that we share. This we can manage for up to a 2 week long trip. Give it a go next time 🙂

2) Be prepared
We were anything other than prepared travellers before we had Liam. We found a hotel on arrival, and had only the barest idea of what our travel plans would be. After having him though, this has changed, to make it easier. We book our hotels ahead, we make a rough plan of what we want to do when we get there, and we pack a few essentials we never considered before.

These are the things that we never leave home without:

Enough nappies for the trip – we count them out, and add a couple of spares. If you get stuck you can always buy them where you are, but they might not be the ones you are used to.
Baby wipes – but easy to get more at any 7 Eleven / supermarket
A simple thermometer (in case a fever occurs)
Baby paracetamol
Enough formula (if used) to last the trip – measure out into a smaller plastic container
A Sistema 21652 Klip It Lunch Plus To-Go Container (Assorted Colors Sold Separately)“>small plastic container for carrying snacks during day trips – easier than trying to find something with a grumpy child
A AirBnB has also made things easier:
For the Netherlands and Belgium: Weekend Hotel
For Europe: Red Apple Apartments
For New Zealand holiday home rentals: Book A Bach
Globally: AirBnB.com

7) Take a favorite cuddly toy with you
Going on holiday is both exciting and unsettling for children. Helping them to settle into their new “home” through taking a familiar soft toy can help smoothen out the transition. I think most children have one soft toy that they are particularly fond of, and just because you are packing light doesn’t mean that the favorite friend has to be left at home. Liam carries bear with him on the plane, and sleeps with him when we are away. It is his one constant wherever we stay and it seems to help him adapt to being away from home easily.

8) Pack more smaller toys rather than a couple of big ones
Small children get bored and need stimulation, regardless of where you are staying. Taking one big toy takes a lot of room in the luggage, but does not allow for swapping toys to keep the stimulation active. We had a play mat during Liam’f first year, but instead of taking the whole mat with us when we travelled, we unhooked the stimulus toys attached to it and took them with us. The baby wrap doubled up as a play mat, and a bunch of stimulus toys kept him entertained for quite a while. We could also take them in the push chair with us as we explored the city. They key is to think about the multi-functionality of the toys when you are choosing them.

9) Shop for food at local markets
Shopping at local markets and cooking at the apartment can be a great way to get a taste of where you are but still make the trip a little easier while your child is small. This is especially true in Europe, but also holds for some Asian cities where exotic fruits in particular can be picked up as great snacks or after meal treats.

10) Relax and let them fall asleep in the push chair while you explore the city
Small children are incredibly adaptable, if you let them be. We have met a lot of parents who are really worried about being home in time for the scheduled naps of their children, and this we also did when we were at home. But when we were on a city trip, we let him fall asleep in the push chair and kept exploring the city while he slept. This was easiest in the first 6 months when he had a basinet style stroller, but even after this, we would tip the seat of the pushchair as far back as it went and he would sleep happily as we walked. Stopping walking was sometimes a trigger for him to wake again though, so we did get very fit in the process.

Make the most of the flexibility of them not yet being at school
Traveling with a small child can be a challenge, and takes a little more planning than traveling without them, but it doesn’t have to mean that you stay at home and wait for them to get bigger. While they are young enough to not yet be at school means that you are not yet stuck to traveling in school holidays and you can make the most of cheaper out of school holiday fares. Need any more excuses to take them away with you?